My day started after ten hours sleeping/dozing, and the second night in a row I've had nightmares. Weird. My camping spot wasn't as beautiful this time around, but it was far enough from the traffic that I wasn't disturbed by lights or noise. Not that that is usually an issue.

I paused today to check out Karalee Rocks which feed a dam that used to be used by railways, and Boorla rock which... was much the same. I think Karalee wins in my preferences for the four old rusting cars sitting just off the track. Though the Boorla track was shorter and smoother.

Then there was Scenic Lookout, which is Aboriginal for Not-A-Bad-View. There were some quite cool lizards that I couldn't get anywhere near to snap a decent photo of before they took off and hid, and some of the most tenacious flies it's ever been my misfortune to meet. Dozens of them and they were determined that I must be an ideal place to hang about. In all my years, this was the first time I've had so many flies bothering me that I actually started to freak out a bit.

Or maybe it's just the ongoing mood swings.

I need a hug.

A real one, none of yer goldarned internetty ones neither!

Eventually reached Coolgardie and discovered that the two things I wanted to visit, the railway and pharmacy museums, were both closed. The rail one was undergoing renovations, no idea why the other was shut. So I wandered into a secondhand bookshop and wandered out with four Virgin New Adventures Doctor Who books, the second Geodesica novel, and the second Dreaming Down Under. I've already got that one, but wanted it for bookswap on the Nullarbor. May as well try to introduce people to our Aussie SF authors :)

I decided to head on to Kalgoorlie and stay at a backpackers - the Golddust Backpackers to be precise. $24 and I get a bed, and more importantly, a shower. Bliss! I had a wonderful shower Monday at Simon's and I know it's only Wednesday, but I felt exceptionally grubby, probably because I've been detouring onto lots of corrugated dirt tracks.

My two roommates are Kak (pronounced Kuck) from Korea, who has come to Kalgoorlie looking for work, and Till (pronounced Till) who is from Germany and is waiting for permission to drive across Aboriginal land on the Great Central Highway to Alice Springs. Tomorrow I'm detouring North to Lake Ballard 180km away. Yes, I know I wasn't going to do detours over 20 or 30km, but the lake is dry and has 51 pieces of artwork placed around on it! I'll probably camp somewhere nearby for the night and head back here the next day. Not sure yet whether I'll stay in Kalgoorlie a second night or head on towards Norseman.

I went out tonight in search of food. My route back took me past the Starting Gates, the small booths from which prostitutes used to ply their trade, and in fact still do. I got waved to and talked to by a handful of ladies, all quite pleasant, all with rather more upholstery than would be my preference if I was paying for their attentions. Mind you, with my mood, it's a good thing they didn't have a thin, gawky, small-busted redhead reading a Doctor Who book, or I may not have been able to resist blowing my cash!

"So, what do you think of the new series?"

There are tours of the most historically significant brothel in Kalgoorlie. If I'm back in time on my return trip, I may take that one. These sorts of things are always fascinating to me.

The other reason I decided to stay at a backpackers was in the hopes of meeting someone wanting a lift to Adelaide. Sadly, my natural shyness means I've only talked to the two people in my dorm, and the couple in front of the telly when I asked them why there were hundreds of people holding up candles on the news. A massacre. 32 people.

Wish I hadn't asked.

I wonder how much the ladies down the road charge for a long cuddle...
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